India Awaits: Varanasi

A visit to Varanasi is usually highlighted by a walk to one of the crematoriums on the river bank of the Ganges. We visited two locations (one small and one very large), but both were just as moving as each other. We saw the larger crematorium in the evening and saw over 15 fires burning - and the fires burn 24 hours a day, with over 300 cremations a day taking place. The bodies need to be cremated within 4 hours of the death - so there are many hospices housing the sick, ready to die and be 'purified' in the Ganges. There is a core flame used at the site and, the story goes, that it has been burning for over 3000 years, and each cremation is started using the flame from this core fire.

Watching from the water, we saw a number of bodies being brought down to the river for the ritual. If the body is covered in red cloth, then it is a female and if white, then it is a male. There are 6 believers who CANNOT be cremated, and these are 'placed' in the middle of the ganges (using a heavy stone to sink them) :

Holy men - as they are already considered pure
Pregnant women - due to innocence
Children under 12 yeas old - innocence
People with Leprosy
People bitten by a cobra
Animals

The image of the cremation up close, and the 'dumping' of the baby were too much for us to bare, however, the men (family members) assisting with the process seem to show no emotion at all. However, the following day when we saw bodies being taken to the Ganges, we saw the family men saying the mantra as they walked down the narrow lanes, and they did show the emotion you would expect upon the death of a family member. No women are allowed at the cremation ceremony - this law was created after women were known to throw themselves on the fire when their husbands were being burned. So, the women stay away as they are 'too emotional' !

We met a man who went by the name of 'Baba G' and he was very keen to tell us the story of the cremation ritual - we were so interested in his speech we forgot to take notes, so we asked if he would do it again, so we could video it. I have attached the video - I hope it is accessible, as it was very interesting to hear.

As I mentioned in my previous blog, if you ever have the opportunity to visit Varanasi - you MUST !

the preparation of a cremation 'bed'

kite flying - so much fun for everyone

Our first view of the large cremation sight from the river

all the wood, it was EVERYWHERE !

a body ready on the stairs, a fire on the top, middle and bottom

Another body being brought to the river for cremation

this man would be the son, and he is responsible for undertaking the whole
cremation process - here he is collecting the water to throw on the fire at the end of the
ceremony. Note he has been shaven.