India Awaits: Easter 2014 in Rajasthan Part two

On our second day in Jodhpur we had the great luck to go on a tour, with our great guide Ragu, of a Bishnoi village just outside of Jodhpur. The Bishnoi people are a group who follow a list of 29 beliefs - bish means 20 and noi means 9. The bishnoi sect was created by Guru Jambheshwar in the 1400's after there were conflicts with local Hindus and Muslims, and he wanted to create a group of like minded followers who wanted to live in peace. One thing I was not fully aware of when travelling in Rajasthan was just how close to the Pakistan border we were. This area has had a lot of conflict over the years - and while we were there we saw a huge train full of army tanks etc travelling to the Pakistan border, so it is still very 'real'.

The main items on the Bishnoi list are to not kill animals (so they are 100% vegetarian), no trees are to be cut down and that the black buck (small deer) was to be preserved at all costs. On our drive out of town we saw some black buck and gazelles roaming happily - looking like they knew they were safe living amongst the Bishnoi people.

We arrived and were greeted by the 'matriarch'. She was very keen to be with us and show us around her place. There was a main 'newer' building, which is used in the winter months, and then there were the traditional mud/manure huts which were mainly used for storage. We were shown the manual grinding of millet, the spices grown in the garden, the cows in the shed (Jack had lots of cuddles with the calves), we watched the daughter-in-law make lunch -it was a fabulous experience. The women (apart from the matriarch) are required to cover their faces as a sign of respect. They seemed to love having us come and visit - obviously we give some money but they really live very self-sufficiently. While I was being shown the 'womanly' duties, Mike was invited to drink Opium (not sure why or how as this was on the list of things not to do.....) with the head of the village - they do this as a social ritual with visitors. The old guy mumbled some words as they sat in the shade and 'bonded'. When we all got back together the old man ground up the opium and filtered it with water to share with Mike. He said it didn't really taste of anything but they use opium for medicinal purposes - not recreational use, and he only had a small amount.

Below are the key rules for living (taken from Wikipedia):

▪ Observe 30 days state of untouchability after child's birth

▪ Observe 5 days segregation while a woman is in her menses

▪ Bath early morning

▪ Obey the ideal rules of life: Modesty

▪ Obey the ideal rules of life: Patience or satisfactions

▪ Obey the ideal rules of life: Purifications

▪ Perform Sandhya two times a day

▪ Eulogise God, The Lord Vishnu in evening hours

▪ Perform Yajna (Havan) every morning

▪ Filter the water, milk and firewood

▪ Speak pure words in all sincerity

▪ Adopt the rule of forgiveness and pity

▪ Do not steal

▪ Do not condemn or criticize

▪ Do not lie

▪ Do not waste the time on argument

▪ Fast on Amavashya and offer prayers to Lord Vishnu

▪ Have pity on all living beings and love them

▪ Do not cut the green trees, save environment

▪ Crush lust, anger, greed and attachment

▪ Accept food and water from our purified people only

▪ To provide a common shelter for male goat/sheep to avoid them being slaughtered in abattoirs

▪ Don't sterilise the ox

▪ Don't use opium

▪ Don't smoke and use tobacco

▪ Don't take bhang or hemp

▪ Don't take wine or any type of liquor

▪ Don't eat meat, remain always pure vegetarian

▪ Never use blue clothes

After our visit we then went to see the local art of weaving and making rugs. The gentleman there were members of a group of 20 families who make the rugs for a wholesaler to sell. The manual process of weaving was demonstrated and the boys had a go too. The sit in open huts and weave for most of the day.

After this, we visited a local clay pot producer. Clay pots are used by everyone in Rajasthan for water storage, and you see piles of the clay pots for sale in every village. I was very keen to bring one home but Mike wasn’t keen on carrying it everywhere we had to travel…….

The boys had a go at using the clay wheel and being a bit creative – they loved it. We bought a couple of small things but the pots will have to wait for another trip.

Visiting the local villages like this one are such a highlight of our time here – the boys learn so much (me too) and as it’s very hands-on, they remember the details and experience for a lot longer.

Part 3 of our trip was Jaisalmer………

The drying cow dung to be used in fires and to insulate the huts

Our lovely matriarch with Max (she is 79 years old)

She loved the boys

All her jewellery was given to her at the wedding to her husband

The water supply is so very precious out here

The only cooking devices

grinding the millet seeds for flour

she was holding on SO tight !!

The mud huts

the spices grown for cooking - brown and green lentils, cumin, sesame seeds, and two herbs that are local to the area
and i have forgotten their names (sorry)

Lunch is on it's way....

This was the closest I was going to get to a smile

This was the 'opium' process

Even the Bishnoi people are talking to someone on the mobile phone

Black Buck (or as Jack and Max called it 'black butt'

ALL the ladies in Rajhastan wear the most brightly coloured saris - just beautiful

Weaving

The tanks roll by to the nearby border

Max lending a hand

Jack's turn

It was election day in Rajasthan and this is how you get marked off the list. The ink will
stay on the hand for at least 6 months - your left hand is marked to show you have voted